Travel: Paris
David Elkin may have seen Ireland lose a rugby game in Paris but he still felt a winner having been enchanted by this beautiful city.
You never get tired of the major sights of Paris - the Eiffel Tower, l'Arc d'Triomphe and the Champs-Elysees. At night, the city sparkles with an aesthetic grandeur that only a place with this history and culture can exude. But as it was my third time visiting the City of Lights, a change was in order.
And there is more to Paris than you can imagine, especially if,
like me, your only experience of it had been right in the centre of the road
most travelled. So, as they say, perhaps taking the alternative route might
make all the difference.
Travelling over to Paris for the Ireland France rugby game gave me a good chance to take in the city either side of the, inevitably depressing, game. Sporting occasions tend to be a great way to sample both the city and the occasion.
Each complements the other in their own inimitable way and staying a few nights before a big event gives you a feel for the atmosphere of the city and gives you adequate scope to explore the settings. And there is nowhere better for this than Paris in the spring time.
The temperatures, however, was sub-zero and the wind was picking up. Taking a tour through the area of the city known as Saint-Germain-des-Prés is an eye opener to the possibilities that Paris possesses for the casual visitor.
The district is known for its array of artisan bakers and chocolate makers where the art of baking and creating is a craft that is respected as a true skill.
Taking a tour around the area, we encountered beautiful little shops that demonstrated some of the unique talent for food creativity that was on offer.
A treat in their own right, certainly, but they were also a welcome respite from the wintry conditions.
We moved through this small, quaint area of the city, down the side streets and around the corners, and found artists and shops being innovative with flavours and exhibiting new designs in their various fields.
The very first specialist chocolate shop in Paris was an elegant and refined little building, showing an array of the finest chocolates available with some unique flavours on show. Truly, chocolate had never tasted so good, or as refined.
Famous chocolate artists Pierre Hermé and Patrick Roger are both based in this area and are well known throughout the country.
In their shops, I felt like I was perusing the offerings of an art gallery rather than a confectioner. I suppose that is part of the unique hybrid of chocolate and culture that is evoked in such places. And a joy it is as well.
Continuing on the course of the not-so-beaten track, I travelled to the Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, a 19th century flea market renowned throughout France as a place to find art and antiques in a unique setting.
Easily navigable on the metro, it is based in the north of the city. The sprawling mass of stalls and alleys defines the casual visitor's impression of the market. Give yourself a day to go and get lost in this part. It's certainly worth it.
Strolling around the market, you encounter a variety of things from traditional antiques, second World War memorabilia and classic American comics. It really is that varied. It seems like every taste is catered for, from the ridiculous to the sublime.
If you do happen to spot something that doesn't quite fit into your carry-on luggage on the way home, the vendors will have it shipped anywhere in the world.
It is a cliché that Parisians love bread. They adore it. And they are very good at making it - in all shapes and forms. Take the common baguette, a French speciality. Now franchised across the world and universally loved.
The little bakeries of Saint-Germain are a world away from this, in both taste and beliefs. We were told the tradition baguette is the very best that Paris has to offer and contains absolutely no additives. It is made from the traditional methods of French baking.
These establishments are a cut above many of the boulangeries -the regular bakeries - that line the streets of the city. This is an interesting part of the French and Parisian psyche.
Sure, their boulangeries are French and there is no doubting that they are Parisian, but if their product does not live up to the highest of standards, they do not receive the special seal of approval.
One destination that's perhaps not an obvious one for tourists is l'Academie Diplomatique - a function facility for events for the political and business community of Paris. I assumed it would be mundane and prosaic but I was, of course, wrong.
On arriving at the unassuming front door of the building, I was shown into a quite startlingly pleasant hallway that leads to a winding staircase that flows down to a grand ballroom, where the decorations look like something you would imagine adorned the walls of Versailles.
From such an inauspicious start, I was taken aback by the impressive nature of the place, and could only imagine the visual impact that it would have in the full flow of a function or ball.
So, out to the suburb of St Denis for the supposed pinnacle of the weekend - le rugby. The area has much to offer apart from the monster of a modern stadium that dominates the skyline.
The St Denis Basilica is a bastion of French history and a beautiful piece of architecture in its own right. If you're out that direction, it is worth a visit and is in close proximity to the stadium.
Being aware of all that Paris has to offer before going, is the best way to ensure a memorable trip to this heartland of European culture and civilisation. Being realistic in your plans is also a big help. Going away for the weekend to Paris? Set priorities for what you want to see and what you don't.
And always schedule some time to see nothing. Walk around and soak it up. You won't have anything ticked off on a list but you will have seen more and got a feel for the real city. Beyond the obvious and into the obscure.
Places to Eat
Chez Clement: A brasserie-style restaurant located in various places around the central areas of Paris, it was a thoroughly enjoyable lunch. The duck confit was a delight and was preceded by a hearty, hot and thick pumpkin soup. www.chezclement.com
The Auberge Saint Roch: A laid-back restaurant with a lively atmosphere and exquisite food. Located in the Opéra area of the city, the steak was of the highest quality and the ambiance certainly evoked that of traditional Paris www.auberge-saint-roch.com.
Les Ombres: Lunch on the second day was provided by this restaurant that, along with excellent food, gives the diner a panoramic view of the city and is located near the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Sit back and enjoy the view with the glass doors letting the sunshine in. www.lesombres-restaurant.com
La Fermette Marbeuf: A five-minute walk from the Champs-Elysees, this excellent restaurant provided me with my first steak tartare and for that I will always be grateful. A beautiful dish, flavoursome and rewarding in equal measure. Excellent establishment. www.fermettemarbeuf.com
Places to Stay
Marriott Rive Gauche: An extremely large and well designed hotel. I was impressed with every aspect of the Marriott during my stay. Primarily a business venue for corporate events and hospitality, where the facilities for such are second to none, this hotel can also serve as a consumer hotel of some distinction. The tasteful retro design harks back to the earlier times but the facilities and service are straight from the 21st century. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/parst-paris-marriott-rive-gauche-hotel-and-conference-
Le Littré, Montparnasse: A traditional hotel in a great location. The room styles are beautifully designed in the old French style, and certain rooms command an exquisite view over the city, including le Tour d'Eiffel, a reason alone to stay. www.hotellittreparis.com
Fouquet's Barrière: Adjoining one of the most famous restaurants in Paris, Le Fouquets, this hotel is located on the Champs-Elysees itself, and is something to behold once you are privileged to be inside it.
The rooms are, of course, top notch but it is the other facilities that give the hotel that extra lift. The hotel and spa area, for example, are top of the range for an inner city hotel. Overall, a breathtakingly impressive place. www.fouquets-barriere.com.
The travel for the trip was sponsored by Air France.
